The Cham Islands, the day out from Hoi An that depends on the sea

The Cham Islands are the part of a Hoi An stay that takes place at sea. Eight small islands sit 15 km offshore, protected as a marine park, and a speedboat reaches them in half an hour. Whether the trip happens at all depends on the season.

Where are the Cham Islands?

The Cham Islands, Cu Lao Cham in Vietnamese, are a group of eight small islands about 15 km off the coast east of Hoi An. The largest, Hon Lao, has a fishing village, a few beaches and the only real settlement. The rest are rocky, forested and uninhabited.

Speedboats leave from the Cua Dai pier and take about 30 minutes to cross. The slower wooden boats take over an hour. Most tours pick visitors up at their hotel in Hoi An and drive them to the pier.

When do the boats run to the Cham Islands?

Boats run to the Cham Islands from about March to September, when the sea is calm. Outside those months the sea is usually too rough, and the trip is cancelled on the morning of departure. A booked trip in October or November is a hope rather than a plan.

The best months are May to August, with warm water and the clearest visibility. The Vietnam in June guide and the Vietnam in July guide set out the central coast in those months.

What does a day on the islands involve?

A day out to the islands follows the same shape on almost every tour. The boat crosses in the morning, stops at a reef for an hour of snorkelling, then lands on Hon Lao for a short visit to the village and its small temple.

Lunch is seafood at a beach restaurant, followed by time on the sand at Bai Chong or Bai Ong. The boat returns to the mainland by mid-afternoon. Day tours usually include the snorkelling gear, lunch and the marine park fee.

Is the snorkelling off Cu Lao Cham any good?

The snorkelling at the Cham Islands is pleasant rather than remarkable. The reefs are shallow and protected, with coral and plenty of small fish, and a first-time snorkeller will enjoy them. Visibility varies with the weather, and the busiest sites see many boats a day.

Divers find more around the outer islands, and several Hoi An dive shops run trips in season. For better water, the diving guide ranks Con Dao and Nha Trang above them, and the Da Nang or Nha Trang guide makes the same comparison.

What does a Cham Islands trip cost?

A group day tour to the islands costs roughly 600,000 to 1,000,000 dong a person from Hoi An, which at about 26,000 dong to the US dollar is 23 to 38 dollars. That usually covers the speedboat, hotel pickup, snorkelling gear, lunch and the marine park fee.

Diving trips cost more, and private boats cost much more. Cheaper tours tend to cut the snorkelling time or the lunch rather than the boat, so check what is included before booking.

Can you stay overnight on the islands?

Visitors can stay overnight in homestays and simple guesthouses in the village on Hon Lao, the main island. The island changes after the day boats leave: the beaches empty, the fishermen come back, and the evening is quiet.

Book through the homestay or an agent in Hoi An, since the rules for overnight visitors have changed over the years. The island has banned single-use plastic bags for a long time, so carry a reusable one.

How does the day fit a stay in Hoi An?

The islands fit the third day of a stay in Hoi An, as an alternative to My Son in the months when the sea allows. The three-day Hoi An route offers the choice, and the two do not fit in one day.

A calm morning is the only real requirement. Book the trip for a day with slack after it, so a cancellation on the morning can move to the next day rather than disappear.