Kayaking in Vietnam, and the water worth paddling
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Almost all the kayaking in Vietnam happens in one place: the limestone bays of the north, from a boat that brought the kayaks with it. Worth knowing before planning a trip around the sport, because there is very little independent paddling to be had.
What there is, though, is genuinely good, and the best of it is not where the cruise fleet goes.
Where is the kayaking in Vietnam?
Lan Ha Bay, from Cat Ba, if you have a choice. It holds the same limestone as Ha Long with a fraction of the boats. The lagoons there are quiet enough to hear the water.
| Where | What it is | How you get on the water |
|---|---|---|
| Lan Ha Bay | Karst, lagoons, floating villages | Day boat from Cat Ba, kayaks aboard |
| Ha Long Bay | The same rock, more traffic | An hour off an overnight cruise |
| Chay river, Phong Nha | Green river, a cave mouth | Half-day trip with a swim |
| Nha Trang bay | Islands and clear water | Island boat, sometimes with kayaks |
| Mekong canals | Palm channels, flat water | Homestay or tour, mornings |
The Cat Ba things to do page covers what else fills the days at the northern end, and the diving guide is the other way to get into Vietnamese water.
Is it included in a cruise?
Usually 1 hour of it, and that hour is the reason to choose one boat over another. Almost every overnight cruise and most Lan Ha day boats carry doubles and stop at a lagoon or a cave mouth before lunch.
Ask 2 questions when booking: how long the kayak stop is, and how many other boats share it. On the busiest Ha Long stops 100 people are in the water at once, which is not what anyone pictured.
What is it like to paddle there?
Easy, short and sheltered. These are stable doubles in flat water, the guide briefs you at the boat, and the distances run a few hundred metres rather than a few kilometres.
What makes it worth doing is the scale of the rock from a metre above the surface. A cliff that looks pleasant from a cruise deck is enormous from a kayak, and the cave mouths are only reachable this way.
What is not kayaking?
The Ninh Binh boats, and the distinction matters because the photographs look alike. Trang An and Tam Coc are rowed for you on a fixed route, often by a woman rowing with her feet. You sit still and look up.
A rowed sampan is a good two hours and a different activity. The two-day Ninh Binh route covers which of the two rivers to take and when.
When is the water calm enough?
March to May and September to November in the north, and early whatever the month. The bays are flattest before 10:00, and the afternoon wind gets up in most seasons.
Summer brings the storms that suspend sailings entirely, which the typhoon season guide covers. December to February is cold and grey. The karst in mist has its own quality, and the water is not inviting.
What does kayaking in Vietnam cost?
Rarely anything, because it is rarely sold on its own. A Lan Ha day boat from Cat Ba runs roughly 400,000 to 700,000 dong a person with lunch and kayaks included, and an overnight Ha Long cruise carries them in the fare.
Standalone rental exists at a few beaches and at Phong Nha, usually 100,000 to 200,000 dong an hour for a double. What does not exist is the hire-and-go culture of a European lake. Almost every kayak belongs to a boat or an operator, and paddling off unaccompanied is not the arrangement.
Belonging to an operator is the practical difference to plan around. Book the boat you want and check it carries kayaks, rather than booking a bed and expecting to find a paddle later.
What should you check?
Whether the operator provides buoyancy aids, and whether anyone is watching the water. Both are normal on the established boats and neither is universal. The beach safety picture on the coast is the same.
Take a dry bag or leave the phone on the boat. The kayaks are stable and the water is warm, and neither of those helps once a phone is in the bottom of a lagoon.
FAQ
Where can you kayak in Vietnam?
Lan Ha and Ha Long bays above everything else, the Chay river at Phong Nha, the bay at Nha Trang and the delta canals. The northern bays are the reason anyone brings a paddle here; the rest are pleasant rather than remarkable.
Is kayaking included in a Ha Long cruise?
Usually an hour of it is, and the hour is the point rather than a bonus. Almost every overnight cruise and most Lan Ha day boats carry kayaks and stop at a lagoon, and paddling into a cave mouth is the part passengers remember.
Lan Ha or Ha Long for kayaking?
Lan Ha, by a distance. It carries the same limestone with a fraction of the traffic, the lagoons are quieter, and the boats leave from Cat Ba rather than from the Ha Long terminal. Ha Long's kayak stops can hold a hundred people at once.
Do you need experience?
No. These are stable sit-on or sit-in doubles in sheltered water, guides brief you at the boat, and the distances are short. Anyone who can swim and follow instructions manages the hour without trouble.
Is the Ninh Binh boat trip kayaking?
No, and the difference surprises people. Trang An and Tam Coc are rowed for you by a boatwoman, often with her feet, on a fixed route. You sit still and look at the karst, which is a different pleasure from paddling yourself.
When is the water calm enough?
March to May and September to November in the north, and the mornings within them. The bays are flattest early, the summer brings storms that suspend sailings, and winter is cold and grey with the karst in mist.
Can you kayak at Phong Nha?
Yes, on the Chay river and at the mouth of the dark cave, usually as part of a half-day trip that includes a mud bath and a swim. It is warmer, greener and completely different water from the bays.